Su Yan is also enchanting to cook white meat

At the end of last year, I had a dinner with my colleagues in the department. Since someone just returned from a business trip in Yibin and highly recommends Sichuan cuisine, I went to a “net red” Sichuan cuisine restaurant in an alley. We waited for half an hour before we got to our seats. The group walked through the narrow corridor and came to the slightly exacerbated hall. It can only accommodate 9 tables, which is really a bit small.

Four of us, each with one burned noodle, ordered 6 more dishes: couple’s lung slices, spicy chicken, fat sausage with wine, hot pot meat, dried beef shredded pork, and Lizhuang white meat. This restaurant has the suspicion of deliberate weight loss, but the taste is extremely authentic, with a strong fragrance, spicy and refreshing, which can be described as impeccable.

Burning noodles are served in small and exquisite blue and white bowls. Besides the noodles, there are refreshing sprouts, crunchy peanuts, and spicy red sauce. I picked up a chopstick and put it in my mouth. There was an instant urge to stand up and salute. Eat another piece of spicy chicken, the spicy flavor is mixed with the oily sensation and released in the mouth, like the leaves of Biluochun slowly stretch in the boiling water, and the spicy forehead sweats.

The most impressive one is Li Zhuang’s white meat. The size of the slice of meat makes it easy to think of a mask or towel. The tender and firm pieces of meat were cut extremely thin and had to admire the master’s skill in the knife. A pair of chopsticks, dipped in a special sauce, spicy and crisp, not fat. China has a tradition of eating white meat since ancient times. As early as 1400 years ago in the Northern Wei Dynasty, the agronomist Jia Sizhen recorded the practice of bacon meat (“white meat”) in “Qi Min Yao Shu”: bacon meat, a white-cooked meat, and cooked with salt. Cut, two inches long, one inch wide, very thin into the new water, eat with scallion, tender garlic, and salt and water.

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the production of white meat was more refined. Ming Dynasty Han Bangqi learned a lot of knowledge throughout his life. In his book “Yuan Luo Ji”, there were records of white boiled meat, but unfortunately the cooking method was not retained. However, Li Huanan of the Qing Dynasty filled this gap, and recorded the production method of white meat in his “Awakening Garden Records”: “When you want to cook meat, first scrape the skin three or four times with a sharp knife and then put it down Boil it. Turn it over at any time. Do not cover the pot. Smell the meat. When the aroma comes out, remove the fire from the stove.

Yuan Mei’s “Suiyuan Food List” records: “White slices of meat, pigs that must be self-supported, put into the pot after slaughtering, cooked to perfection, soaked in soup, and picked up in an hour. Where the pigs act, Thin slices serve. Not cold or hot, temperature is the degree. This is a dish that northerners are good at. Southerners are effective, but they are not good at the end. Slice the meat, you must put more than you can. The cutting method must use a small fast blade, with fat and thin coherent, horizontally broken miscellaneous is better, and the saint ‘cut or not, the opposite, the pig body, meat There are many names. Manchuria ‘jumping god meat is the most wonderful.’ Yuan Zicai’s sentence “Manzhou jumping god meat is the most wonderful” illustrates the existence of shamanism in the court of the Qing Dynasty.

According to the customs of the Manchus in the Qing Dynasty, every new year or big joy, from the court to the folks, a Soro pole (or “Sauron pole”) was erected behind the house. Blessing sign. Similar poles can still be seen in the Shenyang Imperial Palace. They use good fat pigs for sacrifice. They must not bargain when buying. The pigs are cleaned and placed under the pole, and people are asked to chant the scriptures while the homeowners bow down under the god’s pole. After the chanting, hang the cleaned intestines on the pole head, put the pork, pig head, and other internal organs together in the pot and cook them, and then invite relatives and friends to enter the house to taste the food together. A plate of boiled pork and running water, cut with a knife. At this time, there is a particular emphasis on eating white meat, that is, the pork must be eaten, there must be no surplus, and it cannot be given away.

After the Manchus entered the Central Plains, they still kept the tradition of sacrificing their ancestors with boiled white meat, and designated Kunning Palace as a place of worship for gods, where they cook white meat. Kunning Palace was the sleeping palace of the Empress of the Ming Dynasty. It was rebuilt in the 12th year of Qing Dynasty. Every year, in the first month and October, the emperor leads the civil and military officials at all levels throughout the dynasty to sacrifice and “blessing”. There is a Ming room dedicated to killing pigs in the northeast corner of Kunning Palace, which has a large tin-painted red lacquered table, which is very large.

In order to show devotion to the gods, the Qing Palace has very strict rules for offering pigs to gods: they must be pigs with pure black hair and fat meat, which are slightly incomplete and discarded. During the sacrifice to the god, the eunuch bent his knees and held the pig. The eunuch and the eunuch chief eunuch played the pipa and made a clapper to match the whole ceremony. Later, some eunuchs grabbed the pig’s ears, poured hot wine into it, and the irritated pig repeatedly shook his head. This is the so-called “leader”. After killing the pigs, the pork and pig sewage are all cooked in the pot. Take a few shoulders, ribs, lungs, hearts, etc. and cut them into small copper bowls for sacrifice.

After the sacrifice is over, the process of sharing “blessed meat (ie cooked white meat)” by the monarchs and ministers. The court sacrifice rules of the Qing dynasty followed the ancient customs. Only white water was allowed to be cooked with water, salt salt sauce was not allowed, the flesh color was unchanged, and it remained the same to show devotion to the gods. White sliced ​​meat has even been promoted as the first dish of the court. Eating meat in Kunning Palace is even better known as “blessing” and is regarded as an honor by the ministers. In addition to the royal lord Baylor, although the minister is a good one, the emperor must be selected by the emperor to participate in the “blessing”. Only the second-ranking member can participate in eating pork.

When eating the emperor, the emperor sat down first, and the princes and ministers thanked the emperor, and then sat down on the floor. The emperor cut the meat by himself with a small knife, and then all the royal ministers could eat meat. The attendees each drank a wine, two large pieces of pork, one soup and one bowl of pork, and the pork was cut with a knife. The practice of holding the knife and taking meat is not for the pursuit of wild interest, but to respect the tradition. Do not add any seasonings when cooking the meat. The cooked meat is naturally tasteless, tasteless and extremely greasy. Many ministers see it as a chore, but some people think of ways to improve the taste of boiled meat. Some people soaked the sauce with tissue paper in advance, pretending to wipe the knife with paper when eating meat, but actually applied the sauce to the knife and tasted a little bit. The emperors knew the tricks of their subjects, but in most cases pretended not to know.

Later, this method of cooking white meat gradually flowed into the people. The cooking method is to wash the skinned pork belly and cut into large pieces. Put the skin up in a large pot and cook with seasonings. The soup must always be in a slightly boiling state, and it can’t be turned halfway. Cook until the noodles are ripe. Remove them and let them cool. Cut them into large, thin and transparent slices. .

In Beijing, the best done white meat is the casserole house that was built in the first six years of Qianlong (1741). The original name of the casserole is Heshunju, which is famous for selling white meat. Because it cooks meat in casseroles, it is also called “casserole”. The casserole only sells one pig a day, so you do n’t have to eat until you are late. For this reason, Beijing also has a rest sentence: “The guise of a casserole house-not waiting until noon.” During the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, someone ran to eat meat, but it came late, and unfortunately left two poems: “Eating white meat in Cangwa City, the sun has only appeared late.” For imperial use. It is also because of this dish that the casserole sauce successfully ranked among the “Beijing Eight Great Residences”.