Half the winter clothes you wear are from the world wars
In the past few days, another wave of cold air has come from north to south, and many people must have started to search for winter clothes. But did you know that the origins of many winter clothes in your closet can be traced back to the two world wars. That coat alone can tell the history of a book.
The horn button coat on your body is a great achievement. The
horn button coat not only has excellent warmth retention effect, but also reduces age after the upper body. It can be called one of the most enduring items in winter. Speaking of it, we always think of the youthful academic style, among which Japanese dramas and Korean dramas have played a big role.
In the classic Japanese drama Takashi Kashiwahara’s version of “It’s Love at First Kiss”, which evokes the memories of countless girls, the heroine Kotoko often wears a camel-colored horn button coat.
However, this youthful horn button coat has an out-and-out military background. In 1887, British tailor John Patry was inspired by a Polish-style hooded military dress and designed the earliest horn button coat. The style at that time was slightly different from today’s style, shorter and wider, but the iconic horn buckle has appeared.
During the First World War, the horn button coat was selected by the British Royal Navy and popularized in the navy. With its thick fabric and windproof and wear-resistant features, it became a good product for keeping out the cold and was widely welcomed by soldiers.
A navy-reworked coat lays the foundation for the current silhouette. They added an extra piece of fabric on the shoulders to keep them warm while reducing wear, and the front buckle tab on the hood doubled as a neck warmer. The deep and large pockets are both hand warmer and hold a lot of stuff. As for the horn buckle itself, it is tailor-made for the navy. Soldiers can easily fasten the buckle without taking off their thick gloves.
Horn button coats also became popular in the Army during World War II. At that time, British Field Marshal Montgomery especially liked to wear this kind of coat. Another famous World War II general, David Sterling, the founder of the British Special Airborne Forces, is also famous for his horn-buttoned coats, even unwilling to take them off in the North African desert. With the endorsement of heroes and generals, the horn button coat became famous all over the world for a while.
After the end of World War II, horn button coats were no longer military supplies. A Morris couple with a keen sense of business had the opportunity to acquire a large number of military stocks and sell them to ordinary people, and they were immediately robbed. The Morris couple, who tasted the sweetness, immediately established their own clothing company Gloverall, which is now the undisputed leader in the horn button coat industry. In this way, the horn button coat has changed from a military uniform to a civilian uniform that is widely loved by the public.
In the 1960s and 1970s, the horn button coat was endowed with new cultural connotations. It once “joined the army” and turned into a vanguard in the anti-war movement. At that time, almost everyone, whether it was a communist cynic on the left bank of Paris or a student at an Ivy League institution, had one.
Straight men’s favorite parka
is actually an old American cotton jacket. A
warm and stylish parka can be said to be a must-have item for a handsome man in winter. Just take a set and go out, you can keep the temperature without losing your style.
Unlike the childish shape of the horn button coat, the parka looks very tough, so it is not surprising that they were once military uniforms.
Parka is written in English as Parka, which first refers to the coat made of reindeer skin or seal skin invented by the Eskimos living in the Arctic region. In order to resist the severe cold, the hat of this kind of clothes is often made with furry edges.
Because of its excellent thermal performance, the U.S. Air Force developed and designed the B-9 Parka on the basis of the traditional Parka during World War II. The fabric was changed to nylon fabric, and the inside was filled with cotton. It was lighter and also windproof and waterproof.
In the late 1940s, in response to missions in more extreme cold weather, the U.S. Air Force introduced the classic N-3B parka. The button in the B-9 style was changed to a zipper, which can be pulled all the way to the top to reveal only two eyes. The inner is also made of warmer fabric, so that the wearer can feel warm and comfortable even in the environment of minus 51 degrees Celsius.
Another style of parka comes from the “fishtail coat” designed for the Korean War in 1951. They feature a back slit that can be tied to prevent the wind from blowing in, and when it is unfurled, it looks like a fishtail. The most classic of these is the M-51, which discards the inner lining and bristles on the hat, and changes the inner lining of the torso to a detachable one, which makes it more portable.
With the end of the war, ordinary people can also buy parkas in military supply stores. In the 1960s, it directly evolved into a civilian version, and the parka coat left the military camp and entered the homes of ordinary people.
At that time, this cheap civilian version was crazily loved by the British MOD community. Riding a small motorcycle and wearing a parka coat on the outer layer of a suit became a mix and match fashion.
The British army not only won the battle,
but also left behind Burberry and the trench
coat . Everyone knows more or less the military origin of the trench coat. Whether it is the personable Roy in “Broken Blue Bridge”, or the criminal police detective who never leaves his hand on the big screen, they are all telling us the past of the windbreaker.
Trench coats are not just exclusive to men. The image of Audrey Hepburn wearing a Burberry trench coat in the movie “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” has fascinated countless people. Of course, Burberry itself is also a topic that we cannot avoid when we talk about trench coats. In fact, the development history of trench coats is almost equivalent to Burberry’s history of starting from scratch.
Trench warfare was prevalent during World War I. British soldiers often had to fight in trenches in the rain. If they wore simple raincoats, it would inevitably affect the marching operations of the troops. Affecting the combat effectiveness of troops, the British army urgently needs a durable coat that can prevent rain and wind.
At that time in the UK, there were only two stores that could provide this kind of fabric to meet the needs of the military. One is Aquascutum, an old shop loved by the royal family and nobles. As early as the mid-nineteenth century, their founder John Emary invented the world-famous waterproof wool and applied the technology to the production of waterproof clothing. The other is an outdoor store opened by a young man named Thomas Burberry. At first, they mainly made tooling jackets for farmers, and won a group of loyal customers with their excellent quality.
In 1879, Thomas Burberry developed a unique twill waterproof fabric – gabardine based on the hemp blouse worn by shepherds and farmers at that time. The coat made of this material is wear-resistant and not easy to tear, windproof and rainproof. The price is cheap . In times of war when supplies are scarce, such a design is naturally more popular than expensive wool waterproofs. In 1901, Burberry designed an improved trench coat for the army, and it was immediately designated as the high-end military uniform of the British army as soon as it came out, so there was a classic scene in “Broken Blue Bridge” that fascinated countless girls.
After the war, the government distributed surplus trench coats to the public, and this military-style coat has since become civilians. Driven by gentlemen and celebrities, the coat quickly became a trend and began to appear in large numbers in movies. In the “North African Spy” in the 1940s, “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” in the 1960s, and the French New Wave movies at the same time, we can see many screen images in trench coats, cool or elegant.
With the blessing of movie stars, the windbreaker continued to be popular and became a timeless classic in winter clothing. Burberry also counterattacked from a clothing store that made work clothes for farmers to a first-line luxury clothing brand.
American soldiers have caused troubles a lot, so at least they
left the bomber jacket. The
bomber jacket can be said to be the hottest winter item in recent years, and it can be seen in the street photos of various celebrities.
From its name, it is not difficult to infer the air force background of the bomber jacket. As early as World War I, because the aircraft at that time were mostly open cabins, leather wool jackets were used to keep the driver’s body temperature. However, from a cultural and popular perspective, the bomber jacket really shined during World War II.
During World War II, with the popularity of closed cockpits, the lighter A-2 jacket became the standard flight jacket of the US Air Force. However, the wild and unruly American soldiers at that time did not take the word “standard” at ease, and instead created a “jacket graffiti style”. The scantily clad American girls, the cartoon Bugs Bunny, and the planes and cannons most familiar to soldiers were the most popular graffiti themes that year. Some people will also collage various badge patterns on the jacket to show their determination and loyalty.
Air Force commanders just turned a blind eye to such behavior. Soldiers want to draw a naked woman on the back of their jackets, why stop them? They will most likely die the next day.
At that time, some pilots would also invite some street artists to paint their jackets. The folk jacket painting trend was also brought up by these artists, and the flight jacket was introduced to the people. However, the cost of the A-2 jacket was already high at the time, and the supply was limited. Today, it is even more difficult to find, the original is almost impossible to buy, and the replica version is also expensive.
In fact, the bomber jacket that has been popular in the streets and alleys in recent years has evolved on the basis of the MA-1 model. MA-1 was born in the 1850s. At that time, the US military developed nylon fabric. Because of its high density, windproof and waterproof, and smooth feel, it is very suitable for flying and aviation, and it replaces cowhide and sheepskin. New flight jacket fabric.
After being popularized in the military, MA-1 was also brought to life by American soldiers, and was quickly accepted by the public. On the streets of the United States today, MA-1 has become an indispensable fashion item for everyone, and jeans + MA-1 has also become a classic American way of wearing.
The influence of war on modern clothing
Even more than
that Having said so much, horn button coats, parka coats, windbreakers, bomber jackets, almost half of the winter clothing can find its origin in World War II. However, the impact of war on modern clothing did not stop there.
The general acceptance of women wearing trousers has a lot to do with World War II. In the extremely long history, trousers are exclusive to men. It was not until 1909 that France abolished the ban on women’s trousers. In 1923, after many struggles by American women, the US Federal Barrister announced that women could legally wearing pants.
But at this time, women wearing trousers are only no longer illegal, and far from being accepted. It was World War II that really made women wear trousers. Men fight wars, women work, and work has to wear pants, which means the beginning of a new way of life.
War not only affects the course of history on such grand propositions as politics and economy, perhaps one of the most ordinary things in your life was also caused by the smoke of the last century.