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Through winter wild greens

We often think that the relationship between people and wild vegetables is very wonderful. We don’t plant or pay special attention to all kinds of wild vegetables, those we know, those we don’t know, or those we haven’t had time to know. A few stalks of wild vegetables are always in a flash, and we will feel that they are slender and green in our hearts, budding and covering green, and we have an indescribable tacit understanding. This tacit understanding has a long-term meaning, not a long road, but every spring willow.

In this way, maybe it’s just me who has peach blossoms in my mind about wild vegetables, but there are some things, we can always give birth to a little joy when we want to come. In my opinion, they are all looking for the past in the peach blossom forest.

In fact, in our farming nation, the ancestors of ancient times did not speak of wild vegetables.

All kinds of wild vegetables are important sources of food for people to survive. Our ancestors, in the wilderness, “picked Wei Wei Wei, Wei also stopped.” At that time, the society was very small and the wilderness was very large. Compared with wild vegetables, garden vegetables were still on the other side of time. Like the later Tang and Song Dynasties, there was a special “vegetable picking festival” to pick wild vegetables, and “picking weeds” was regarded as a kind of The taste of picking spring is even more impossible to appear in mythology.

Of course, our ancestors would never have imagined that they picked Wei Wei, and the cause of yesterday has become the fruit of today. Since then, there have been more “wei” in our hearts and blood.

The simple life of picking Weiwei year by year has accumulated the ancestors’ understanding of various wild vegetables. Some varieties that are delicious and easy to grow and reproduce have been selected and cultivated in the reclaimed fields. Gradually, there was a division, and those vegetables that were not selected were left in the wilderness and became wild vegetables.

Even if they are treated specially, the vegetables grown are always limited, and wild vegetables that live on their own have no boundaries. They flourish in any seemingly desolate place, and the seeds are everywhere. Picking wild vegetables, picking wild vegetables, and digging wild vegetables, from ancient times to the present, have always affected people’s footsteps. In many famine years in history, wild vegetables are the life-saving food for people to survive.

When I was a child, the “vegetable picking festival” in the Tang and Song Dynasties had disappeared, and “picking spring” was still a custom in the village with deep joy.

Every spring, when all kinds of wild vegetables are crazy, I pick a bamboo basket to pick wild vegetables. It used to be a sunny experience for me. Now I think about it.

I remember Mr. Wang Zengqi said: “Every wild vegetable has a fragrance that is lacking in garden vegetables.” I thought it was true. I further thought that this fragrance probably came from the dormancy of wild vegetables in winter. After autumn every year, the seeds or perennials of wild vegetables begin to dormant in the earth. The shock and awe of all wild vegetables in winter is sad, and some wild vegetables wither. However, more wild vegetables have withstood the severe cold and brewed their unique qualities under the soil devastated by the north wind. When the spring thunder struck, they immediately fell asleep and stung their hair.

Among these wild vegetables, the shepherd’s purse called teriyaki in my hometown is especially popular in spring.

The ground rice dish is sprouted in the deep winter and prosperous in the early spring. In the fields, on the side of the road, on the river beach, and even under the walls, the toothed leaves of the ground rice and vegetables in pairs are covered with a layer of fine fluff, which has a great momentum of covering the field.

In the ancient literature, from the Book of Songs to Tang poetry and Song poetry, shepherd’s purse also flourished all the way: “Who says that the tea is bitter, its sweetness is like a water chestnut”, “The peach and plum in the city are troubled by wind and rain, and the spring is in the stream with the shepherd’s purse flower”, “Every day I think of returning home.” When you are full of ferns, don’t forget to go home with shepherd’s purse in spring.” “When you go around the wheat field, ask for wild shepherd’s purse, and forcefully cook mountain soup for the monastery’s house.” These verses that are opened at will, no matter how long the time has passed, the spring breeze will warm us to the shepherd’s purse. a good feeling.

People in Jiulitan Village could not write such poems, but from generation to generation, word of mouth passed down a custom: “On the third day of the third month of the lunar calendar, don’t forget to cook eggs with rice, vegetables, and eggs.” According to my grandmother, the origin of this custom comes from Mr. Hua Tuo, the ancient god doctor. It is said that it was still during the Three Kingdoms period. Hua Tuo collected herbs in the Jianghan Plain. On the third day of the third month, he was sheltering from the rain in a house. He heard that the old man often suffered from headaches and dizziness, so he prescribed a recipe for boiled eggs with rice and vegetables. old people. The old man’s condition was cured, and the recipe spread quickly. On March 3rd, eating boiled eggs with rice, vegetables, and vegetables gradually became a custom in Jianghan Plain.

However, I prefer to eat rice dishes with eggs. Cut the ground rice and vegetables into fine pieces, put them in the beaten eggs and stir well, pour some rapeseed oil squeezed by grandfather into the iron pot, put the oil into the pot when the oil is hot, stir fry a few times and spread it into some random small pieces . In each small piece, the green dots spread out in the scorched yellow, and the dishes are cooked without diminishing the beauty of the dish.

The long-standing customs of the countryside have a history when they are explored. Although there are changes in the evolution, the substantive content of them has its own foundation.

When I was a big student, I specifically looked up information and learned that shepherd’s purse is also called Hushengcao in the “Compendium of Materia Medica”, and its roots, leaves and flowers have health care or medicinal effects on people.

In ancient times, there was a Shangsi Festival that began in the Zhou Dynasty, and this festival was fixed on the third day of the third month of the lunar calendar after the Wei Dynasty. Picking shepherd’s purse flowers is an important custom of the Shangsi Festival: “On March 3rd, take shepherd’s purse flowers and put them on the stove and on the place where you sit and lie down to prevent insects and ants.” Moths and mosquitoes do not cast.” “On March 3, both men and women wear shepherd’s purse flowers.”

I read records about shepherd’s purse flowers in various ancient books, and once again felt deeply sorry for the gradual disappearance of rural folk culture. When I was a child, some folk customs and customs were still preserved. They were not only passed down, but also passed on to me some common sense of life. These common senses may not be science, but they carry the accumulation from generation to generation in the inheritance, and have a down-to-earth value.

When I was a child, I was very diligent in picking its flowers, because my grandmother told me that my mother was often dizzy, and I scrambled eggs with ground rice and cauliflower for my mother to eat, and my mother would not be dizzy.

The ground rice cauliflower is very slender, with a small cluster of white four-petal florets surrounding the flower stalk. Every teriyaki plant blooms, and it also has its time. It takes less than half an hour to pick a basket of ground rice and vegetables, and half a day is not enough to pick a basket of ground rice and cauliflower.

I have accumulated, and I can pick up a few plates of fried eggs in a day or two. However, I never let my mother eat it once. Mom and Dad worked in the county seat more than 100 miles away from the village. In those days, the distance was just like we are now.

I didn’t mention the matter of picking rice and cauliflower for my mother later. Until now, my mother didn’t know that I picked a handful of rice and cauliflower for her every year. However, I remembered the goodness of rice cauliflower to people, and I also understood the care that family members should have. On the road of life, I can only remember joy and not worry. Because I know in my heart that the warmth of the world in the world will always bring the spring breeze several times under any circumstance, taking care of the pear blossoms and the peach blossoms.

Unlike ground rice and vegetables, which are flourishing in the fields, wild celery integrates its green color into the water, and it grows by water in early spring every year.

Wild celery has many names, folk call it cress, river celery. In the Book of Songs, it is called Chu Kui. In “Lushi Spring and Autumn”, it is also called “Yunmeng Zhiqin”.

Wild celery does not grow just by looking at the water. It has high requirements on the water environment and can only be seen in clear and pure water. In ancient times or even farther away, the Jianghan Plain was still bred in the vast waters of Yunmengze. At that time, “Yunmengzhi Qin”, I think, must have grown happily in the boundless blue waves of Yunmengze, right?

By the time I picked wild celery, the beautiful time had passed, and wild celery growing in a large area was rarely seen. However, the so-called “spring water grows Chu Kui, and the horizon is boundless. The mud melts into the swallow’s mouth, and the root is strong and the goose tube is crisp.” Because the water gene of the Jianghan Plain is deep, it is easy to see small pieces of wild celery on the water surface of the village.

To pick wild celery, we usually cut it with a pair of scissors. Cut off a whole wild celery from the root, and the perennial roots left behind will grow new stems and leaves in a few days.

The stem of wild celery is hollow, the leaves are triangular, more than a foot long, and it is most suitable for consumption when it is bright yellow and green.

We pick wild celery, and it can be said that we mainly play with water.

Wild celery grows in the shallows, water a little deeper than our ankles. The water in early spring is still cold, but the spring sun is already a warm quilt. We push and shove, take off our shoes and socks to test in the water, swaying the surface of the water to a crisp, and turning our reflection into a splash of water. . A little friend exclaimed deliberately and exaggeratedly, which caused us to laugh for a while.

At those times, our happiness was so simple and simple, and it was easy to be happy, just like the peach blossoms in spring, once they bloomed, they bloomed endlessly.

Some of the wild celery swaggering in the water are also blooming, but we always take care to protect the blooming wild celery. This is a kind of natural and simple psychology of ours, which includes a kind of emotion of rural children towards the earth and vegetation. It is probably that the number of wild celery is far less than that of rice vegetables. In instinct, I hope that the weak will have a chance to become stronger.

Moreover, the flowering wild celery is old and not suitable for consumption. Letting it settle down and flowers wither and bear seeds also represents some of our inadvertently revealed hopes, just like our own expectations for the coming year.

The aroma of wild celery is unique and strong, and it is delicious no matter how you fry it. Stir-fry, or scrambled eggs, fried fragrant dry, fried bacon, all have endless aftertastes, never get tired of eating. My most memorable is the fried bacon with wild celery.

The bacon was marinated by my grandmother in the twelfth lunar month of the old year. In those years, every household in the village would raise one or two pigs. We had three grandparents and grandchildren. We raised one pig every year. I harvested pig grass and my grandmother cooked pig food.

A small part of these bacon is made into braised vegetables during the New Year’s Eve. The rest of the bacon should be eaten for at least half a year.

Therefore, marinating bacon was a very warm and thoughtful thing at that time. We mashed cinnamon, star anise, bay leaves and other seasonings, mixed them in soy sauce and salt, spread them evenly on the pork, and then fermented them in earth-fired jars. After a few days, take it out and hang it in the sun every day until it turns dark red.

The bacon made by these various processes is originally full of color, flavor, and flavor, and is mixed with the crispness and smoky aroma of wild celery. At any time, my taste buds can’t resist.

Among all kinds of vegetables, leeks are very special vegetables.

Each part of the leek has different names, its stem name is leek, the root name is leek, and the flower name is leek. From ancient times to the Ming and Qing dynasties, leeks were an important sacrificial dish. There are countless records of leeks in various literatures and books of all dynasties and dynasties.

The history of artificial cultivation of wild leeks is longer than that of many vegetables. In the book “Xia Xiaozheng” in the Spring and Autumn Period, it was recorded that “there are chives in the first month”. 囿, in ancient times, it was a field divided by artificial reclamation. Here, it can be understood as a vegetable garden, and leeks are planted in the vegetable garden in the first month.

That is to say, the gardening of leeks started at least in the Spring and Autumn Period.

In the Han Dynasty, it can be seen from the “Han Shu, Xun Li Zhuan, Zhao Xinchen Biography” that in the Taigong Garden, which was dedicated to the royal meal, there was actually a gallery room, and the method of lighting fire day and night to raise the room temperature. Chives are grown in a greenhouse in winter.

The garden has a long history of growing leeks, and wild leeks are also endlessly growing, all over the north and south of my country, and even the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.

In appearance, wild leeks are taller and stronger than garden leeks. Fully mature wild leeks can grow to about half a meter. One plant is a large handful, and the whole plant can be used as medicine. Stir-fried dishes, the spicy flavor of wild leeks is also stronger than that of garden leeks.

However, in the years when I was carrying a bamboo basket to pick wild vegetables, it was not easy to see wild leeks. Their numbers were smaller than those of wild celery. They were scattered and green in early spring. If you didn’t look carefully, it was easy. Gone at a glance. And when we pick wild leeks, we only pick vegetables that grow to about half a foot in the first spring. It is not difficult to pick a handful, but it is not common to pick a basket.

Many times, we will go straight to the wheat field to find wild leeks.

It seems that wild leeks especially like to accompany wheat, one by one, growing calmly and restrained in the wheat field.

A few spring rains have passed, and the wheat has almost reached our waists, walking through the wheat ridges, every gust of wind, the wheat seedlings swaying sweetly, carrying the stomping sound of our shallow tread, and it seems to have the beauty of nature.

It can be said that this kind of poetic picking is actually a kind of edification for us. The love for the land, the love for plants and nature, unconsciously, become inseparable from us and become part of our blood.

For this love, wild leeks seem to have a consonance and generously give us real encouragement from time to time.

Once, I randomly walked into a wheat field at the north end of the village, and I saw a small piece of wild leeks, white stems and oily green leaves, swaying in front of my eyes.

I squatted on the ground excitedly, cut one on the left and one on the right, and after a while, I filled a full basket.

This is my peak record of picking wild leeks. On the way home through half the village, I showed off frankly all the way. The villagers are simple, knowing that a child is begging for praise, and cooperates with me with a smile.

There were also villagers who deliberately teased me and said, “Oh, the bottom of the basket is supported by a stick, right?” I knew they were teasing me, but they were still enjoying themselves, picking up a thick stack of wild leeks, exposing the bottom of the bamboo basket. The adults laughed, and the children took the opportunity to grab a handful from my basket, and I was not stingy, let them.

The cooking of the villagers is not complicated, just simple home cooking. Because of the good ingredients, these simple dishes are still in my memory to this day. Of all the dishes I’ve eaten from the north and the south, when I think about it, it’s the simple home-cooked dishes in my childhood that I miss the most.

A handful of wild leeks, plus a few eggs that are still warm in the chicken coop, fry them into egg pancakes on a low fire, the explosive aroma is extremely fresh, and it curls into the taste. It still feels fresh and mellow, moist and fragrant.

Wild leeks are also particularly delicious when made into pickles. After washing, let it dry for a while, wrap a few of them into small balls, put them in a crock pot, sprinkle with salt, cover the mouth of the pot with aged lotus leaves, and seal them with yellow mud. A few days later, when the clay pot is opened, it is a juicy and salty pickle. It is chopped and mixed with sesame oil, served with porridge, or mixed with rice. It is very appetizing; its unique salty fragrance is also very tasty.

After I left my hometown, I have never eaten wild leeks, scrambled eggs with leeks and pickled leeks, but I make them from time to time.

Later, it was said that some leeks were planted with growth hormones, and for a long time, I stopped eating leeks.

A few years ago, a friend wanted to grow vegetables on the balcony at home. We went to choose vegetable seedlings together. When I saw that there were leeks in the nursery, I dug some and planted two in flower pots. I only used rice water and residual tea water. keep. It has been nearly four years now, and these two pots of leeks have been cut and revived, and they are green and prosperous on the balcony throughout the year. From time to time, I cut a few scrambled eggs, and it also felt a little bit of the fragrance of winter wild vegetables.

In the early spring of my hometown, there are still many wild vegetables all over the field, such as bitter herbs, wild wormwood, purslane, plantain, ash and so on. These various wild vegetables have their own personalities, charms or legends, and they all have various pasts with my childhood.

“Through the winter, the wild vegetables are green and green, and the plum trees and flowers in the Weila Mountains”, “try to pick the wild vegetables and cook the fragrant rice”, “the spring food wild vegetables competition elixir”. Picking wild vegetables, picking wild vegetables, digging wild vegetables, with the taste of the years, the agarwood of nostalgia, one leaf and one stalk, sinks in my memory. It used to be ordinary, but now, it makes my world so alive.

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