If you are a tourist and only look at the first sight, Busan, which has no zombies in reality, may not be eye-catching.
Busan and South Korea are similar in all places except Seoul, with a strong “urban-rural junction” atmosphere, even though it is the second largest city in Korea.
Away from the sightseeing route, you can see three or two low-rise houses. On the mottled concrete wall, there are all kinds of advertising small paper strips and traces of old repairs. On the top is a circle of bare wires and telephone lines entwined. Going deep into the lane, you can see the small tricycle with canvas on the roadside, carrying the harvest of the scavengers for a whole day. Similar streetscapes abound in Busan.
If you don’t have graffiti on the wall, you can even think that you are in a small city in the second and third tiers of northern China.
Frankly speaking, I don’t really hate this feeling. Compared with the monuments in Seoul that are old and difficult to cover up with new tones, or the beautiful scenery that has been designed, I prefer history to retain its original appearance. This allows one to touch its thickness, withstand its weight, and feel its temperature.
At the beginning of Hua Deng, BIFF Square, Youth Street, Guangfu Road Fashion Street, or Xi’an No. 1 West Street is the most beautiful neighborhood in Busan. The NC Department Store in the west, Lotte Department Store in Nampo-dong, and Centum City in Haeundae’s New World Department Store record how many sightseeing groups buy and buy. The small alleys and small shops around Busan University are also the favorite of Korean travelers.
The movie hall where the Busan Film Festival opened and closed, the 86-meter-high column-free floating roof building is awesome. The shape of the wave, the waves of the Pacific Ocean, and the lighting equipment after the night, intertwined with a dreamy landscape, reminiscent of the dazzling effects in the movie.
In the summer, Haeundae, Matsushima and Gwanganri Beach are always crowded with tourists. Whenever the “Sea Festival” and “Flower Fire Festival”, the lively, free and free atmosphere, with the fresh food of the nearby aquatic market, is unforgettable. The neighboring international hotel is hard to find a room. On the beach at night, there are street performers or singers, or cheerful songs.
But Busan is always a city with stories. In the first half of the 15th century, due to the intrusion of Japan, Busan was forced to open, and there was a shack in this place to trade with the Japanese side. In 1876, the “Jianghua Island Treaty” forced South Korea to open, the museum was abolished, and Busan Port gradually modernized. In the period of the Japanese occupation, a large number of infrastructure construction and the opening of the liaison vessel of the Kansai (Busan and Kyushu, Japan) have gradually developed Busan. The ruins of Caoliangyu on the edge of Longtoushan Mountain, several ancient buildings on the story of Caoliang, and various old photographs displayed on the wall seem to tell the above history and can be tasted.
In the period of the Japanese occupation, a large number of infrastructure construction and the opening of the liaison vessel, the development of Busan.
The nearest “168 Stairs” has been the fastest way to get off the mountain from the halfway up the mountain and head to Busan Port. There are three wells underneath. In the era of water shortage, people take turns taking water here. Because of the crowd, it has gradually become an important place for emotional and information exchange. Nowadays, there is a monorail elevator that can go up (mainly for the elderly with limited mobility), but you can still climb and see. On the slopes of the six-story building, there are either rustic or colourful landscaping, each with different scenery, and the ultimate joy of the summit, it is worth taking a trip.
However, because of the steep slope, my travel companion felt terrible. In the second half, we only dared to move extremely slowly at the turtle speed, and we were quickly stepped forward by a few energetic aunts. People couldn’t help but sigh: Azuma of Busan (transliteration of Korean aunt) really Extremely powerful.
If you have time, it is recommended to go to Shadow Island for an afternoon. In addition to the scene of the Korean film “The Defender”, the Xinxian Middle School where the Korean pop star Jiang Daniel attended, and the rich food, walking in the evening on the coastline is also very comfortable.
Imprint of refugees
Busan ushered in a turning point in the 1950s. Due to the Korean War, North Korea occupied more than 90% of the Korean Peninsula at a speed that was too fast, and the government of Li Chengyin was forced to retreat. Busan became the temporary capital. After the refugees arrived in South Vietnam, Busan became the base camp for refugees at that time, and the population soared to a million. Until today, there are many places where you can see the life mark of the refugees.
For example, the favorite of international tourists, known as South Korea “Machu Picchu” or “Santorini” Ganchuandong Cultural Village, it was once the refuge village built by the poor in the Korean War. The flat land in downtown Busan is limited and cannot accommodate such a large number of refugees. Refugee settlements are generally built on remote hillsides, and up to 4,000 people live here.
On the entire mountainside, there are more than 800 short houses covered with densely packed houses. This is an extremely ruined place. Until the “Dream Busan Machu Picchu” event was held in 2009, every house was built by the artists and residents in the village. Painted with colorful colors to make it look like Lego bricks. In addition, the activity also draws murals or builds scenes (such as punching hot spots: little princes and foxes) to integrate art into life. Whether it’s the painting on the building itself or on the wall, or the clothespin on the clothesline, it’s ingenious.
The colorful stepped huts are layer by layer, like a small village in a fairy tale. The intricate, narrow lanes that can only be accommodated but have surprises everywhere make this journey like a treasure hunt.
But Guangliang sang, and the fairy tale is deceptive. Before being transformed into a model of an art village, the rough old houses have long been mottled and extremely incompatible with the conditions for living. Like other mural villages in Busan, such as the Putian Mural Village, the Fuquan Cave Mural Village, and the Mural Mural Village, these are also examples of the activation of refugee villages for decades. However, due to the long age of these mural villages, the inhabitants are unable to maintain, the buildings are dangerous and broken, and the poor elderly people live. As time goes by, it is impossible to escape the fate of being demolished and abolished.
If you don’t want to be a big man, then please exclude those who hand in business cards and speak foreign languages.
In the Mural Village of Mentou Cave, there were more than 200 volunteers in 2008. It took 3 months to draw a “warm story of warm people” and walked the “fairy tale” style. Its murals and landscaping are not as refined as the Ganchuan Cave, but the style of painting is more yuan and closer to life. There are a lot of tourists, quite quiet, and people sometimes feel back. Every piece of sincerity, warmth, full of childish and innocent murals, people can’t help but recall the goodness of childhood.
The influence of refugees is everywhere, such as the famous soup rice street in the west of Busan. It is named after the pork soup rice, which is the traditional cuisine of Busan. The soup is cooked in a very simple way. It is served with cooked pork bone broth, topped with boiled pork, served with leeks and shrimp paste, which is a delicious dish for northern refugees to quickly replenish during the war.
How can you not go to the market?
Take the bus down to the flat, you will first pass through Baoshuidong Old Book Street, which is a good place for the book-lover Taobao. Although it took shape in the Japanese occupation period, the scale is still after the refugees go south. In order to survive, many people will sell the books they have brought, and the professors and students who return to school in the South also need to buy books. Slowly, the old bookstore street is formed here.
The old book market of Baoshuidong in the Japanese occupation period was originally in the international market. This place was popular with the “International Market” of the filmmaker Huang Zhengmin. The “Small Flower Shop” became a tourist attraction. The international market is gradually formed as a result of the sale of various necessities for the livelihood of the refugees. The market connects a lot of lanes, from a variety of household items to travel companions, K-POP albums, everything. The Fuping Canned Market, which is separated by a road, is named after the US military stationed, and all kinds of smuggled goods flow into the market, including all kinds of military cans.
The Sapporo market, which tourists love to visit, although it was a fish market formed by land reclamation as early as the Japanese occupation period, the scale expansion was after the increase in the number of people who came to Busan to seek refuge. Refugees and local residents opened stores in this area and reached their peak in the 1970s. The traders are so crowded that hundreds of kinds of seafood are traded and sold in the country along with the auctioneers’ screams, and the outside world has begun to form a seafood shopping street.
If you ask me if I have any suggestions to avoid being deceived, I will say that the sales in the main building are relatively transparent. As for the seafood shopping street… If you don’t want to be a big head, please exclude those who hand in business cards and speak foreign languages. Store. After all, if you spend a little more money on learning a foreign language or printing a beautiful business card, you naturally have to make more money than other families!
Leaving Sapporo, heading for Nampo-dong, there is a 40-step sightseeing theme street. During the war, because it was not far from the station and the terminal, it was the first stop for refugees to Busan. Most of the relief supplies were distributed here, so the refugees built temporary shelters here with wooden boards or thatched grasses. Many of the refugees used the 40 steps as the “meeting point” for the separated relatives and friends.
This is the place where many generations of people are happy and happy. In the past when materials are scarce, whether it is going out to work or transporting drinking water, this is a must, and it becomes a common memory of the citizens. The old ladder was destroyed during the fire in Busan Station in 1953, and the existing buildings were rebuilt in 2004. In the middle of the new set up children’s water tank, male and female tram farewell, bronze statues of uncle playing musical instruments, etc., describe the difficult times.
The Yingdao Bridge next to it was built in 1947 and is the first cross-sea bridge in Busan. Due to the proximity to the port, as long as a large ship passes, it will open and close. At present, there are only 15 minutes of opening ceremony at 2 pm due to the passage of small vessels. At that time, many refugees landed here, and bronze statues of refugees were also erected under the bridge.
In Busan, my last visit was the temporary capital memorial in the Western District. At that time, Li Chengyin’s official residence and office was a very beautiful red brick cottage. The environment was quiet and the interior was maintained at that time. Li Chengyue is here to handle official duties and receive US military generals. But when I saw the gorgeous blue-and-white porcelain toilet and urinal in the toilet, I can only say that it is no wonder that he would be exiled because of the corruption of the government he led.
In the garden, other important events in the war were drawn by the painter, and the misfortunes of the people at that time were displaced. The exhibition hall on the side is based on the life of ordinary people in the hard times, and truly shows the daily life of the Busan refugees and the appearance of the refuge school at that time. Visitors can feel the dark period of the history of the Korean nation.
The place that can be reached from the temporary capital memorial hall is the “Longxing Land” of the two presidents (Wen Zai, Roh Moo-hyun) – a two-person law firm (now closed for business transfer). Standing downstairs in the office, I can’t help but feel that I have put myself into a Korean movie that I have seen before.
The Korean War has ended more than 60 years. The son of the former refugees has become the president of today. The fate of this thing is sometimes unpredictable.